Boss Hogg: Spoils of The Flesh in LA

Black Hogg is that rarest of places in Los Angeles. One where men can eat, women can indulge, and life stops for a few hours or so.  The staff understands this fact and accommodates the diner, not pushing him out the door, but instead encouraging him to make a night of it and indulge in the spoils of the flesh.

A typical Saturday night at Black Hogg is a loud affair right now, with be-bearded Silver Lake-headed hipsters hanging with their almost-pretty wives and waiting for tables in this sparse new eatery on Sunset Boulevard just across from the famous Pho Cafe and next to a very good Alchemy Tattoo.

You may ask why it’s called Black Hogg but has a picture of a sheep outside.  After stepping over to the liquor store next door to pick up a bottle of wine (Black Hogg has no liquor license as of yet) we asked our waitress just that. “It’s a lamb” she said, flatly. Adding that hogg with two Gs like that means lamb.

If you live in Silver Lake and happen to be a fan of the restaurant Animal and the growing trend of meat-centric menus in the Los Angeles area, Black Hogg is a welcome addition to neighborhood.  The menu is jam packed with fleshy delights and fried concoctions, from raw oysters to fried olives.  The sort of place where your meal can consist of pork belly tacos, popcorn bacon with maple cream, Uni Toast, lettuce ricotta salad, roasted bone marrow, longaniza sausage hash with fried egg and the buttery lamb burger with onetik blue cheese and fries.

Overall, the food is rich and satisfying for the mildly adventurous carnivore — someone who likes to take risks without leaving the comforts of familiar flavor (the smell of bacon is never far from one’s nose).  But one who is serious about exploring the Jonathan Goldian depths of animal flesh might be a bit disappointed.  The menu is somewhat limited, and some of the seasoning and cooking styles mask the meaty and gamey glory you’d want to taste.  We will chalk that up to the working through the regular we-just-opened kinks.

The flavors at Black Hogg are rich, the ambiance is laid back and cool and the staff was incredibly nice, accommodating, and fun to talk with.  The food — it’s good.  The spirit is right, rich food, loud room, people kicked back getting full and talking in that longing American way, over dishes made to share, looking out into the bleak East Hollywood night as cars pass, and the down and out wander under the bridge over Silver Lake Blvd, where they’ll seek cover and rest.